SUNDANCE, Utah -- "We love to take people out on the trails. They uncover new things and feel connected to the place in a powerful way," says Jessie Walthers of the Sundance Preserve.

One moment, hikers may wander into a dark, cool spruce forest; the next, they may stumble across a sunny, south-facing slope clad in scrub oak. Another turn in the trail leads to aspen groves and meadows. "On guided hikes, we introduce them to secret places," says Walthers.

Sundance is more about the outdoors than the indoors. Wildflower glades catch my eye. I notice old-growth pines and rock outcroppings. A sparkling stream and waterfall grab attention while wooden structures blend into the forest. Only later do I realize that 95 guest cottages are scattered across the property. Where are they? Lost in the wilderness.

The village -- rustic and almost pioneer in spirit -- is the center point of Sundance Resort and Sundance Preserve. While we stroll through, a group of nature photographers gathers for a workshop. Mountain bikers prepare for their ride. A chairlift carries a family with young children up the hillside. "They see panoramic views of the mountains without having to hike up the slopes," says Walthers.

Towering at nearly 12,000 feet, Mount Timpanogos commands a lot of respect. Luckily, the peak receives protection courtesy of everyone associated with Sundance, particularly resort founder and owner Robert Redford. For more than four decades, the actor has sheltered the wilderness around the limestone peak.

Redford's association with Sundance began in 1961, when he bought two acres for $500. "This is where he raised his family," says Sundance spokeswoman Lucy Ridolphi. He built a house, and, as years passed, he purchased more land in the canyon. He created the village to be a peaceful retreat for learning and inspiration.

These days, Sundance claims more than 5,000 acres. Three-thousand acres are permanently protected with conservation easements. Eighty-thousand acres of Uinta National Forest surround Sundance, forming a massive habitat for black bear, mountain lion, bobcat, mountain goat, bighorn sheep, moose, elk and mule deer.

As a naturalist, Walthers knows where wildlife congregates, and she organizes excursions for guests. "We usually have special birding programs in spring when songbirds migrate through here. The canyons get interesting air currents and thermals, so we have wonderful views of birds that utilize them to soar and hunt," she explains.

 

Dancing in the sun

 

In 1981, Redford combined his passions for the environment and filmmaking when he founded the Sundance Institute. "He loved the idea of having a community where artists could come and experiment with their craft and nature. Originally the institute was located on the property. It is now in Park City and also has an office in Los Angeles. During the summer, people come here to do their theater labs," says Ridolphi.

Accommodations, originally built for cinephiles, now serve anyone who visits the resort.

Screenwriters, playwrights and composers benefit from the laid-back atmosphere of the village. We see signs directing actors to meeting rooms, but don't really notice groups of theater and film people. That is to say, we didn't spot any celebrities. Redford keeps a very low profile, the staff tells me.

"He does come to the property, of course," says Ridolphi. "He comes from time to time," says Walthers with equally zipped lips.

Welcoming, comfortable interiors make it feel as if you are his houseguest. The fine-dining restaurant, Tree Room, is a showplace for Redford's personal collection of American Indian art and Western memorabilia. Meals here and at the Foundry Grill reflect Redford's appreciation for organically grown vegetables and naturally raised meat and fowl. Mountain cuisine on the Tree Room's menu includes oven-roasted pink trout with skillet potatoes and herb-crusted rack of lamb. It has an AAA Four-Diamond rating. Guests sip drinks in the Owl Bar. Redford transported the 1890s bar from a Wyoming establishment that was patronized by Butch Cassidy's Hole-in-the Wall Gang.

People relax in front of stone fireplaces in gathering rooms and in cozy guest rooms. The mountain cottages reflect elements of the outdoors: rough-sawn beams, rich earth tones, dried plant material, nature-inspired decorative pieces. Vibrantly colored textiles and crafts serve as reminders of the culture and heritage of the native people.

Handcrafted objects in rooms may inspire guests to make their own. They can do this at the Sundance Art Shack, just a few steps from the Sundance Deli and General Store. Professional artists teach classes in pottery, painting, silversmithing and printmaking. Glassblowers create colorful wares in the adjoining space; some of these may be purchased at the sales gallery.

Fly-fishing and horseback riding are prime activities in canyons gnawed into the Wasatch Range. Guests hike or ride horses to Stewart Falls, named after the Scottish sheep-farming family that owned the property many years ago. Guests spend quiet time at the Spa at Sundance. Treatments rely on American Indian traditions and organic products.

Evenings feature theater performances, poetry readings or music events. Film screenings are part of the Sundance Outdoor Film Festival. People ride the chairlift up the slopes for romantic interludes on nights with a full moon.

 

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Sundance Resort, 800-892-1600 (lodging reservations), www.sundanceresort.com. Conde Nast Traveler magazine's 2005 readers poll ranked Sundance No. 5 in the Top 10 U.S. Resorts category.

 

(Contact travel editor Linda Lange of The Knoxville News Sentinel in Tennessee at www.knoxnews.com.)

 

 

 

(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, http://www.scrippsnews.net)